Derby

The Derby is the lace-up shoe most men reach for first — and for good reason. Unlike the Oxford, whose facing is sewn shut beneath the vamp, the Derby's open lacing system sits on top, making it easier to put on, more forgiving across different foot widths, and slightly more relaxed in character. It's the shoe that bridges the gap between formal and smart-casual with ease.

The 3DM Derby collection covers the full range of what this silhouette can do: the plain-toe Derby for clean, minimal formality; the full brogue wingtip for maximum decorative detail; the split-toe for something with quiet distinction; and the woven Derby for a textural twist. Patent black for formal evenings. Grain leather for added character. All Blake-stitched from full-grain European leather, with a resoleable leather outsole built for the long term.

The most wearable dress shoe in the collection. Start here if you're building from scratch.