The streets of Pitti Uomo witnessed a resurgence of double-breasted blazers. Whether in bold checks, subtle pinstripes, or classic navy, this style made a strong comeback, reaffirming its status as a cornerstone of sartorial elegance.
From luxurious wool overcoats to perfectly paired scarves, the streets became a canvas for showcasing the art of layering. This technique not only provided warmth but also added depth and sophistication to each ensemble.
Captivating street images revealed a symphony of tweed and herringbone fabrics dominating the street style scene. Classic patterns, thoughtfully combined, brought a touch of English countryside charm to the bustling streets of Florence. It was a testament to the enduring appeal of heritage textiles.
From finely crafted leather gloves to exquisite pocket squares, men at Pitti Uomo embraced the art of accessorizing. Accessories were not just accents but statements of personal style that elevated each look.
Pitti Uomo 2024 was not just a display of fashion; it was a celebration of timeless elegance and classic tailoring. As we navigate the ever-evolving landscape of men's style, let's draw inspiration from the streets of Florence and embrace the enduring allure of well-crafted, timeless fashion.
]]>SUNGLASSES
Finally, now is the time to get the sunglasses out of the dark drawers and into the light. Nothing gives a cool and casual vibe more than nice sunglasses. You can always go with the simple timeless frames, but here Persol has brought back an outstanding classic from their archives. Whether you are walking down the streets of your city, or skiing down the last slopes of the season, these can serve as your style inspiration for sunglasses.
VEST
The most useful garment in early spring is a good and warm vest. Gilets are great because they can work as a piece of chic outerwear in themselves, or give added insulations under your jacket on cold days.
Here the vest from Brunello Cucinelli is in a natural colour which is great for fitting into a wardrobe and natural materials like silk and linen work great with tailoring and fine garments.
TROUSERS
As always, trousers are very important for a great look. In spring you can take advantage of the last opportunity to wear your flannel trousers, before the summer heat takes away this lovely option.
A good tailored trouser is high waisted, which will make sure that your shirt looks great when it is tucked in and overall it will elongate your legs.
Here the trouser is from the Neapolitan house De Petrillo.
SUEDE SHOES
Finally, no outfit is complete without shoes, and for spring that means suede.
A great suede shoe is the perfect transition between winter boots and summer loafers. By nature of the raw material, suede shoes are comfortable and their elegance comes from its natural texture.
For this early spring look with natural tones, perhaps the taupe suede single monk strap could be the perfect fit. The rare shape of the single clasp shoe is the sign of a real connoisseur, as its shoe making references that go back centuries, not only decades.That would be the perfect way to finish off the perfect look for the early spring days to come!
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In any wardrobe there should be boots in black, dark brown and tan leather to compliment every outfit you want to wear. Let us begin with the most classic, the black brogue boot.
This boot is an ode to craftsmanship. It all starts with the sturdy derby construction made with an elongated last and the metal lacing system. Then the eye is drawn to the Brogue details of the wingtip, which is added to give an air of refinement to the shoe.
The timeless shape and the immaculate black leather gives this boot an elegance and a formality that would look perfect with a charcoal flannel suit. But equally, because it is a high boot, it has a stylish casual touch that makes it perfect for a walk on the weekend.
After the black and more formal boot, the second essential boot is brown and more casual. The Chukka is a perfect everyday boot, with a bit of a rough history, but it could become the foundation of your casual wardrobe.
Its origins comes from the military, where the Chukka was used by British soldiers on foreign campaigns in hot climates. First used in India and then in the dessert campaign of WWII, it was very practical because of its lightness and mobility. This military heritage gives it a utilitarian feel to the boot, that works perfectly with more casual outfits.
The ankle high boot will pair perfectly with jeans and chinos for everyday use. While the original Chukka boot was made in suede, this grained leather version, with its dark patina, elevates the army classic.
The third and final essential boot is the Chelsea, because no list of great boots would be complete without it.
Quintessentially British, the timeless Chelsea Boot is a versatile shoe with a simple design and a long heritage. Practical and cool, thanks to the elastic sides, the Chelsea boot was made popular by bands like the Beatles in the 1960’s and is still an icon to this day.
It is versatile due to its simplicity and heritage. Because of the purity of design it is possible to dress the Chelsea boot up. Because of the rock and roll history of the shoe, it retains an air of cool and works well informally.
For the trio of essential boots, choosing a Chelsea boot in tan leather is a good way to end of the trinity, but you could equally well go for a suede version. Pure, without any unnecessary decorations, the Chelsea is a classic boot that, like the Chukka and the Brogue, will keep you stylish for many years to come.
Image Credits: Permanent Style
Classic Style
There is no doubt that the key elements of great style still comes from traditional garments. This is where the craft of tailoring is highlighted and there are so many style icons, who wore great tailoring, that we can study and reference.
To take classic tailoring to the next level, it is good to keep garments in the same colour palette and play with different textures. The key is to highlight the beauty of the cloth and the craft, while the flattering cut will do your physique a favour.
Image Credits: Luke Allend
Formal & Utilitarian
This year at Pitti Uomo, the trend of mixing formal tailoring with more practical and utilitarian pieces continued. Years ago, people began wearing technical parka jackets over their suits and now the field jacket is the menswear enthusiast’s preferred choice.
Wearing a field jacket on top of a formal suit gives a special edge, a sense that you have chosen every garment with care because you wanted to wear exactly that look. Equally, a long formal coat can make an otherwise casual look, of white jeans and boots, more appropriate for an elegant fashion event.
Image Credits: The Anthologyy
Casual Tailoring
Finally, tailoring doesn’t have to be formal to be great. Here is an example of Simon Crompton, the legendary bespoke writer, wearing denim jeans and shirt with a simple blazer from “The Anthology”. It is not a look that will turn heads, like many of the other flamboyant looks at Pitti, but it does look good because the garments are well cut and because Simon looks comfortable.
Great style should be about finding garments that suit you and make you feel great while underlining your unique style.
Image Credits: Permanent Style
]]>The colder season is all about jackets and coats. There is something very special about a heavy fabric that feels more like true tailoring than light summer fabrics. The weight of a good coat sitting perfectly on the shoulder can remind us of how tailoring used to be, where garments were made to last a lifetime.
]]>The ideal is not to dress because we have to, but because we want to. Not because of how others perceive us, but because we are interested. And finally we can take pleasure from fashion and look elegant, without overthinking it.
One classic menswear brand that has found a nice balance in this aesthetic paradox is The Anthology. Everyone is looking for perfect modern tailoring, and the Hong Kong based bespoke tailoring brand, has found a great direction. Without using modern gimmicks, they use technique, fabric and pattern making to update traditional tailoring and classically inspired leisurewear. Here are three of their inspiring looks for fall, and let's see which principles we can learn from the talented tailors.
LAYERING
For fall, the most important thing is to have layers, so you can be comfortable inside and out. Here a country jacket is paired with a scarf, a turtle neck and a base layer, allowing a casual but timelessly elegant look. You can also notice how using muted colours in every layer can highlight the beauty of materials and textures, like this lovely herringbone.
OUTERWEAR
The colder season is all about jackets and coats. There is something very special about a heavy fabric that feels more like true tailoring than light summer fabrics. The weight of a good coat sitting perfectly on the shoulder can remind us of how tailoring used to be, where garments were made to last a lifetime.
There are so many options of outerwear, like this navy coat or beige field jacket, each made for either the city or the countryside, but each equally elegant. This is also the time where you can take out your boots, polish them up and take on the cold season in style.
QUALITY
If there is one thing we should learn from the world of bespoke, it is that quality matters. When you buy a key piece to add to your wardrobe, it makes sense to invest in quality, not only because you can keep the garment longer and it will look better, but because you will enjoy wearing it more. Keep in mind the principles of fit, materials, craftsmanship and design, and your wardrobe will be smaller, luxurious and something to be proud of.
Here, The Anthology have made a great blouson that has an updated classic cut and a material that is interesting, without being flashy. This key garment is well made, and would look great with jeans and your favourite pair of shoes. Every part of the look is
]]>A great fall jacket must have three qualities. It must be versatile so you can wear it with the rest of your autumn wardrobe. It must be comfortable, with a good fit and a great fabric. Finally, it must be easy to take on and off, without worry about it getting wrinkled as you fling it over a chair when you get inside warm and cosy surroundings.
The first option is a classic over-shirt in ivory wool and cashmere.
The flannel texture and the natural fibres give just the warmth you need for a fall day. The clean lines and the off-white colour allows the jacket to be dressed up with tailored trousers and leather boots, while the breast pockets and shirt details makes it prefect for more casual looks as well.
This over-shirt is from Suit Supply, and is a classic style your tailor can make or you might find in your favourite menswear boutique.
The second look is for when you want to leave your formal navy blue blazer behind, and want to look elegant yet comfortable.
This casual blazer in toasted beige alpaca wool is just the jacket for this situation. It retains the shape of a blazer, but with the fabric and tailoring details showing an off-duty comfort.
Patch pockets, like on this jacket from Suit Supply, always give a less formal look and the shirt cuffs also make it more relaxed.
For autumn, few jackets are as easy to wear as the bomber jacket.
It has a timeless style from its practical military roots and a sporty feeling from its use as the varsity jackets.
You can chose any colour and material, from brown leather and shearling to silk and colourful prints.
Here Brunello Cucinelli offers a luxury version with water-resistant cashmere and waxed calfskin sleeves.
No list of fall jackets would be complete without suede.
Suede is comfortable, soft to the touch and follows the natural contours of the body to give a casual style.
The style of the trucker jacket is a classic, with its roots from classic denim work-wear. Here Mr. Porter styles the army green jacket with all black resulting in a sophisticated look.
To round off the list of fall jackets, the vest is a natural choice. It works perfectly on top of a shirt or knitwear or even over a shirt-jacket or under a blazer.
This vest from Moncler, is sure to keep you warm in the city or on your next ski trip, and its houndstooth pattern will fit in nicely with autumn tailoring.
Just like all the jackets above, vests are available in many styles and in high quality in all good shops, and they will give additional warmth and style to your outfits for colder weather.
The next step is to chose the style of jacket that best fits your wardrobe and enjoy this beautiful season.
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In a life full of chores, how wonderful would it be if we could turn these inevitable repetitive tasks into sources of joy. Obtaining food is one of the few necessities of life and cooking is a life long skill that you can enjoy every day. Take the opportunity to learn more about the passionate culinary world and enjoy both the process and the result of your cooking.
Whether you are new to cooking or a master in the kitchen, you can always learn more and be inspired by the passion of others. One great way to do this is with Masterclasses where world renowned chefs teach their skills, share their inspiration and show the passion they have for cooking.
For example, the masterclass with Italian chef Massimo Bottura is great at showing a new perspective on cooking. For him “cooking is an act of love” and in his restaurant they strive not only for excellence but also for affection.
Another option to fuel the fire of your passion for cooking is the Bon Appétit YouTube channel. Not only are their videos highly entertaining you can also learn almost anything about cooking. You can learn about many different dishes that are simple, quick and tasty. If you are looking for interesting long projects in the kitchen, you can check out the series of videos made by Brad Leone called “It's Alive”. The series of YouTube videos looks into different cooking techniques, often with fermentation or conservation, like how to make beer, or your own hot sauce, or kimchi or sausages.
Lastly, cooking is about more than skills and recipes, it is also about the philosophy of taking time to do things properly. The dedication of excellent chefs is very inspiring, not only to people with an interest in cooking.
Listen to this wonderful storyteller about his life as a chef. Three Michelin star chef Marco Pierre White has seen the different sides of cooking and knows how to achieve excellence in his domain. He has embraced a practical approach to perfection and defines it thusly “Perfection is lots of little things done well”.
When you begin your next dish or project in the kitchen, it will make a world of difference to keep in mind his story and perspective. A great dish is one where every element is prepared with intelligence and care. Why not enjoy cooking and sharing the fruits of your labour with your close ones!
]]>Since the dawn of time, men have adorned themselves with jewellery. From amber and pretty shells to gold and diamonds, precious and beautiful materials have been worked with skill into shapes to be worn and enjoyed. We have selected three classic pieces of jewellery that are easy to wear and might become your daily companions for many years.
The Ring
There are a lot of possibilities to find a beautiful ring, but it is very important to find a piece you love and feel confident wearing.
A ring is very personal and can easily become a piece of jewellery you love to wear every day. On the other hand, you might get hooked and start collecting a variety of rings to suit you mood and outfit.
For a first ring, it is best to take something simple that you find beautiful. Here we have selected a silver ring from the Canadian brand “Pearls Before Swine”. It is a solid ring shaped to look like a chain and it remains elegant because its beauty lies in the subtle texture of the silver.
Another option for a great ring is to have a signet ring made by a local artisan. The skilled jewellery engraver, like Louis Boursier in Paris, will use a sharp steel tool to engrave any symbol into the soft gold ring.
You don’t have to be a member of the aristocracy and have an ancient family crest. You can choose a symbol or letters that are meaningful to you and wear it always.
The Bracelet
A bracelet can add a masculine touch of allure to an outfit and you can find the perfect one to match your style. Bracelets are great to make a look more casual and cool and are easy to wear.
You can chose a pure metal bracelets, like the “Clou” from Cartier, or perhaps a simple woven bracelet is more your style. It is also a great look to layer multiple bracelets that look nice together.
Here we have chosen a dark brown leather bracelet from Tom Ford with a gold plated T-bar fastening. It is an example of a bracelet that could add both raw masculinity and luxury to your style.
The Cufflinks
The last piece of jewellery is also the most formal, but there is no reason why you cannot incorporate into your favourite outfits.
Cufflinks are a traditional part of formal wear and is the most elegant way to wear a beautiful shirt. However, few men often wear cufflinks although they wear shirts daily. It can be a pleasure to wear cufflinks and can give you the feeling of being beautifully dressed in a powerful way. They are small and subtle, but give a distinctive air of elegance.
Here the gold cufflinks from Buccellati, made in Milan, will give a discreet but powerful statement to your look. A pair of pure gold cufflinks can be worn with pride not only by you, but perhaps also by the next generation.
If you wear shirts often, you can consider choosing French cuffs where you have the opportunity to wear cufflinks. There is no need to only wear jewellery on special occasions when you can take pleasure in these beautiful objects in your daily life.
]]>Whether you are the guest or the groom, a wedding is a special and joyous event. Everyone dress up and look their best to underline the importance and to enjoy the day to the fullest. Choosing the perfect outfit depends on many things, but one important factor is the mood and season of the wedding. Let’s look at your options for looking great at your next summer wedding!
At any wedding there is a pinnacle of formality where it is always best to follow the dress guide set out by the bride and groom in the invitation. If it says black tie, then the choice of wearing a tuxedo is already made for you. Otherwise, you should dress up as much as you can while remaining comfortable and confident with your appearance. The best option is well-fitted tailoring in light weight summer fabrics to allow you to feel great even if it gets warm.
Firstly, for the tuxedo you cannot go wrong with the classics. If you are the groom, you might want to indulge in an ivory dinner jacket to stand out in a crowd of black tie, but as a guest you should stick to black or midnight navy blue. You can invest in a black tuxedo and choose a summer wool, which feels light and dry to the touch. The trousers should have a satin silk line running down the side and the shoes should be black. You have a wide choice between oxfords, maybe even patent leather, or nice black loafers. You should stay classic so you respect the dress code and you will look great in the tuxedo for many years to come.
Secondly, you will probably need another more relaxed outfit. You can use this chic look for the actual wedding if the invite doesn’t specify black tie, or you can use it for the less formal part of the wedding. Perhaps you can wear a relaxed suit for the wedding ceremony and then the tuxedo for the party in the evening.
Especially if you are going to a destination wedding, it is best to travel light, but you can create multiple looks from wardrobe essentials. The base of the relaxed outfit is a pair of tailored trousers, perhaps in beige or navy blue, and a pair of quality loafers you feel great in. Then you can bring two dress shirts. It might get warm so it is good to have spare, and the two different shirts can make the look very versatile, perhaps one colourful with stripes and one classic blue with a nice tie.
Lastly, the jacket. On the way to the wedding you can wear a unconstructed linen field jacket which is comfortable and relaxed. If you also bring a summer blazer, you can create a very elegant set of tailoring whenever the wedding calls for a more elevated style.
These different options can be used for one single wedding weekend or you can chose the one look which bests suits your style. For the relaxed options, you can always have fun with accessories like pocket squares and sunglasses, but it is always good to aim for classic and timeless, especially if you chose to wear a tuxedo for your summer wedding.
"Elegance is not standing out, but being remembered." - Giorgio Armani
Some great style icons’ main goal was to stand out and they succeeded with ever-changing styles and bold colours. Another kind of style is the understated well dressed person who is seeking great style for its own sake, not to get recognition from others.
The Butterfly loafers are quite ideal because they offer a beautiful shape and are also very rare. Few people are familiar with this special loafer and even fewer own a pair.
Here you have a shoe that can make you stand out, while staying elegant.
Butterfly loafers get the name from the soft shapes of the interwoven leather, which aesthetically resemble butterfly wings while practically they hold the foot securely in place. The fit of the loafer is very classic while the other particularity of the shoe is the rounded brogue detailing which decorates the top of the loafer.
In the sober colours of brown and black, the timeless leather is understated and allows the design of the loafer to shine. As a loafer it is quite versatile. In both brown and black you can easily dress them up, because the loafer remains understated. However you can also wear them more casually, especially the brown version which will match with more casual clothing. The design also has a duality between the clean lines of the butterfly construction and the decoration of the brogue detailing, which gives the shoe an interesting allure.
Loafers in general are best for warmer weather, so when spring arrives you can start wearing them often.
You can wear the black pair with light grey tailored trousers for the first warm day of the year. A pair of light grey socks and a black turtleneck will polish the formal spring look, which you can finish with a dark double breasted blazer if you are in the mood.
For the brown Butterfly loafers you can consider a nice beige chino trouser with a woollen utility jacket or your favourite pair of blue denim jeans and a crisp linen shirt.
Few loafers are as rare or as elegant as the Butterfly loafers. It can allow you to express your unique style while staying understated and timeless.
“Elegance is when someone seems like they are themselves”
- Hubert de Givenchy
]]>It is always interesting to think about how the clothes of an era symbolises the values of that time and how it has affected the way we dress today.
In the digital age we are all bombarded with lots of photos all the time and it can be nice to take an afternoon at a museum and look at masterpieces that would have taken time and great skill to create. We have chosen to have a closer look at four paintings, to see how they fit within the history of menswear.
Dandyism
Our first work of art is by frenchman James Tissot (1836-1902) and is hung at the Musée d'Orsay in Paris. The painting is called “Le Cercle de la rue Royale” and shows a relaxed afternoon gathering of 12 gentlemen in the heart of Paris in 1868.
Beyond being a beautiful painting of the golden age in Paris, the image is very interesting sartorially. Notice how all men wear traditional tailoring, but how they have been able to differentiate themselves within the strict codes of tailoring. These were aristocratic men with an abundance of time and money who have obviously dressed themselves with care. A houndstooth trouser, a nice pair of gloves, a special shirt collar or a bowtie is enough to stand out while adhering to the rules of elegance.
The role of a gentleman
Art has a great ability to give us insight into the mindset of a specific part of history. This painting by Henri Gervex (1852–1929) can do exactly that.
Through the eyes of the painter, we get to witness “An Evening at Pré Catelan”. The summer evening is drawing to its end and the first people are leaving the beautiful restaurant. The painting is from 1909 and shows the allure of the nightlife of the upper classes in the early twentieth century.
Looking at the clothes, it is easy to notice the colourful and decorated dresses of the ladies in attendance. The all men wear formal white tie and once they are outside, the put on their black coats and top hats before leaving. The balance of the dress codes between genders is what is so interesting. Every man wears an elegant but understated black outfit while the women wear unique and flamboyant dresses.
The dress code of black tie and white tie were put in place to allow all men to look similar, effectively wearing a civilian uniform of black, so that the women were allowed to stand out with their beauty. While this courtesy sounds gallant, it is also quite patronising in that women were mainly admired for their physical beauty, whereas a man had the possibility to be admired for his mind and accomplishments.
Effortless Elegance
Great art is not only beautiful but is also captures a mood. This mood is allows different people to be drawn to different artists, period and styles.
In the famous painting “Wanderer above the Sea of Fog” the German painter Caspar David Friedrich (1774-1840) captures an awesome and melancholic mood.
The painting is from 1818 and the wanderer ha s an air of effortless elegance about him. While on a solitarily walk in the mountains he looks perfectly neat with his dark coat and walking stick while he pauses to thinks about life. What makes this a striking look is that he wears simple and beautiful clothes, all in the same colour, and he is clearly wearing it only for himself. This is what makes him so elegant.
Uniforms
It would be impossible to finish an article about menswear in art without emphasising the beauty and importance of military uniforms.
Throughout history, the military has created practical and decorative garments that have filtered down to our time. Here the Russian painter Pimen Orlov 1812-1863 depicts the young officer Alexander Nikolaevich Karamzin sitting relaxed in his dress uniform smoking. Dress uniforms have often been good at highlighting physical strength, much like ancient armour. Here the golden shoulders and the buttons set in the v-shape of the torso hints towards ideal portions of a military man.
Still today, garments like the bomber jacket, the M65 field jacket, the trench coat, the Parka, chukka boots and even the wrist watch have a clear military heritage.
]]>The mark of something good is often that it becomes more interesting and enjoyable the more you learn about it. Gin has an interesting history and the more you learn about it, the more pleasure you can take in enjoying the drink.
Recently, gin has become increasingly popular around the world with new distilleries and exclusively gin serving bars popping up.
The history of gin stretches back a thousand years to monasteries in the 11th century. Here alcohol was distilled for medical purposes and the key ingredient of juniper berries were added as they had long been believed to have positive healthy properties.
When distilled alcohol became more widespread for pleasurable consumption, the Dutch and the English especially continued to add juniper berries to their distilled alcohol. By the 17th and 18th centuries, the process of distilling alcohol was still not mastered and the raw alcohol often had an unpleasant flavour and impurities that were hidden by the strong flavour of the juniper berries. As gin was easy to make, it quickly rose to claim the popularity it still holds today.
Among many of the new distilleries that have opened up around the world are the Japanese gin distilleries with a new perspective on gin. The main traditional flavour in gin comes from the juniper berries but other herbs and spices have often been added as well. The Japanese distilleries have been particular good at in introducing subtle but innovative flavours in the gin from native Japanese botanicals. Given the expertise in distilling and the unique quality of plants and herbs, perhaps your next bottle of gin could come from Japan.
There are many ways to enjoy gin, perhaps you even like to drink it neat. Once gin has sparked your curiosity, you can learn lots more and take pleasure in its varieties.
Finally we would like to share our three favourite gin cocktails to make at home or order at your local speak-easy.
FRENCH 75
If you are in a sophisticated mood and or looking for the perfect welcome drink for your next party, the French 75 is for you.
It is based on a gin sour with 2 parts gin, 1 part lemon juice and 1 part simple syrup, but most importantly it is finished off with a generous amount of champagne.
It is beautiful served in a champagne flute glass with a bit of lemon peel, and you can always use a dry Prosecco or Cava if that is what you have cold at home.
GIN BASIL SMASH
Another cocktail with with a nice balance between sweetness and acidity, but with a basil twist.
Make a large batch of gin sour with gin, lemon and sirup and add a handful of fresh basil leaves to your shaker or even a pestle and mortar. Smash up the basil to let the warm aromatic flavour mix with the iced gin and lemon. You end up with a delicious summer drink for an aperitif with friends or even by the pool. This modern classic was invented in 2008 and your favorite barman will either already know it or be able to make it very easily.
GIN & TONIC
No list of gin cocktails is complete without the classic G&T.
The cocktail came about in an attempt to make tonic water more palatable, because it was used as a medicine agains malaria. Mixing the tonic water with lime, sugar and gin made the “medicine” very popular and the classic cocktail was born.
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Not only does nature seize the opportunity to make the forests green and our parks bloom, but we can change our heavy winter wardrobe out for lighter colours and fabrics.
Here are four looks inspired by spring that you can put together from your wardrobe or with a small investment in quality clothes.
THE SIMPLEST SOLUTION IS OFTEN THE BEST
The first look for spring stays in the light natural tones of leather, linen and cotton. With a pair of beautiful tailored trousers in a light colour, you can wear a simple polo and be elegant for any occasion.
You can add a touch of personality with an elaborately cut monk strap in a light colour.
Wingtip Single Monkstrap Tan - 3DM Lifestyle
Paul Cotton and Modal-Blend Piqué Polo Shirt - NN07 - MrPorter.com
Light Brown Pleated Brentwood - SuitSupply.com
RUGGED COUNTRY ELEGANCE
Few looks are more sophisticated than those inspired by the utilitarian elegance of the country side.
Here the field jacket would be a pleasure to wear almost every day in spring and to take it off and enjoy a bit of sun between two clouds while wearing a light linen shirt. To round off this casual chic look, a comfortable suede loafer will do the trick.
Belgian Saddle Loafers Tan Suede - 3DM Lifestyle
Linen Field Jacket - thomsweeney.com
Andre Garment-Dyed Linen Shirt - Loro Piana - MrPorter.com
SPRING WEDDING
When you are lucky enough to be invited to a spring wedding, you can of course wear the standard navy or grey suit. However, if you want to take your spring style to the next level, you can wear a light beige fabric to stand out elegantly.
SuitSupply has great quality suits for an affordable price and with a minimal polo shirt and beautiful shoes, you will be good to go.
Venetian Loafer Cognac - 3DM Lifestyle
Light Brown Havana Suit - suitsupply.com
MODERN TAILORING
Tailoring does not need to be conservative, it can be comfortable and cool. Two brands that embody this new wave of quality fashion is Thom Browne and Paul Smith.
Start with your favourite leather loafer and work your way upwards to a great look.
The tailored trousers with the signature Thom Browne stripes show that you take an interest in fashion and the classic Paul Smith blazer has the necessities of spring tailoring to make it cool with its patch pockets and unlined construction.
Lorenzo Leather Loafers - 3DM Lifestyle
Unstructured Wool and Cashmere-Blend Blazer - Paul Smith - MrPorter.com
Striped Wool Trousers - Thom Browne - MrPorter.com
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There has to be a natural balance between the quality of design, craftsmanship and materials. Very often companies offer a good-looking design, but with poor craftsmanship and materials. Although it is cheap, it cannot last and give satisfaction. But when the craftsmanship is improved, it becomes natural to also improve the material, so there is a balance between all three elements. It is senseless to spend many hours of craftsmanship on designs in poor materials, just like it is senseless to give an amateur artisan a very precious material. When a good equilibrium is reached, good design becomes a great product.
The design of the Saddle Strap Belgian Loafers is effortless. The special construction is reminding of the stirrup of a saddle and gives a sleek elongated look to the loafer. This loafer is quite a rare sight and will make a great addition to any shoe collection. In its style it is a hybrid between the penny loafer and the traditional Belgian loafer. The aim was to create timeless shape that becomes elegant in its simplicity.
The shape is complimented by the materials. Suede is often a good choice for comfortable loafers to make them softer and more comfortable. It can also give versatility because they can work as very casual shoes while still being perfectly suited to a more formal setting.
The tan suede Saddle Strap Belgian Loafers are perfect for summer. You can pair them with white, beige and all the shades of blue in your wardrobe.
The black suede is great for bold looks, you can even imagine an all black outfit at a summer night party by the Mediterranean.
Finally, as to highlight the beauty of materials the Saddle Strap Belgian Loafers are also made in crocodile patterned leather. Our artisans imitate the pattern of the crocodile by using a strong press to emboss the intricate pattern into prepared leather. Textured leather is often very well complimented by bold colours. Here the green and red inject the loafers with lots of colour and personality.
When you look for great products to add to your wardrobe, the trinity of design, craftsmanship and materials is important to keep in mind. Design is most important, as it most defines your style. However, to enjoy something for a long time the craftsmanship and quality of materials become vital. We are always searching for the perfect balance between the three and trying to improve each element.
]]>Many admirers of classic style and tailoring are often filled with nostalgia when looking at our world. What lies behind the notion that people were better dressed and more elegant in the past? Is there a good reason for standing out from the crowd of casual wear and dressing up?
In society there is a tendency for most people to dress similarly. The trend is to dress without regard to age to the point where a trendy 16 year boy and a trendy 46 year old man might easily wear the same clothes from the same brands. Equally, within women’s fashion, youth is also idealised to such a degree that most magazines feature teenage models on their pages when selling their magazines to an audience of adult women.
This trend of casual clothing and dressing similarly across generations seems to come from the idea that the teenage carefree life is the peak of life. However, in the past there was a higher regard for experience and respect for adulthood.
The fact of being older or wearing a suit doesn’t automatically make someone respectable, someone young and dressed casually might be equally deserving of respect. However, dressing up is a great way to show that you respect yourself, the people around you and the task at hand.
Imagine a teacher who wears a tie every day, even when it is not required, not to demand authority but to show respect for the students. Similarly a CEO can show respect to the employees at a company and the topic of a meeting when dressing up.
Beyond the elegance of a crisp white shirt, it shows effort to dress up, which becomes a symbol of respect to those around you and yourself.
Dressing up can signal that you assume the responsibility of being an adult. We don’t have to idolise teenage youth, we can enjoy the wisdom and respect that comes with experience and assuming responsibility.
Next time you are in a public place, have a look around. How many people are wearing jeans? How many people are wearing sneakers?
It is quite easy to dress elegantly and take control of your life as an adult. Wearing well made tailored trousers and leather shoes will make you better dressed than 90% of the population. Wear clothes that fit and take care of them. Iron your shirt and polish your shoes.
We can feel nostalgic for a lost time of elegance, not just because it looked good, but because it represent a time where a man’s word was his bond, where respect was given to those who resumed their responsibilities and adulthood was distinct from careless teenage years.
The way we dress is a symbol of who we are, but it is still only a symbol. The most important thing is to leave ideals of youth behind and enjoy the respect that comes from the privileges and responsibilities of adulthood.
]]>The premise is that a series of small improvements will add up to a remarkable result. James Clear has looked at instances where high achieving people, teams or companies have searched for every little opportunity to improve and believes this is the key to their success.
The name “Atomic Habits” comes from the idea that within the smallest possible element lies a huge amount of power. The book’s advice is to look at what you want to achieve and then think of all the big obvious ways to improve and then also all the seemingly insignificant ways to improve, and then aim to improve a little bit regularly.
Atomic Habits offers advice on how to improve your habits that can be summed up in 3 key points.
Firstly, you must make good habits easy and bad habits hard. A good environment makes good habits easy and we can also remember the old saying about how “a bad system is where good people do bad things”. Instead of having your phone with your morning alarm right next to your bed, you can move it to the other side of the bedroom so you are forced to get out of bed in the morning, instead of pressing snooze.
Secondly, your efforts will be more successful if you track your process. If you want to work out every day, then the simple fact of noting if you did or didn’t work out will help your progress. The smartphone app “Streaks” is great to keep track of your habits.
Thirdly, enjoy the magic of compounding returns. Much like financial investments, good habits that improve your behavior increases your returns quickly. If you improve a skill by 1% every day, you will be 37 times better at the end of the year.
“The chains of habit are too light to be felt until they are too strong to be broken”
- Warren Buffett
The great thing about this concept is that you can apply it to whatever interests you. A team of British bicyclists made tiny incremental improvements and won olympic gold. If you are interested in style, then perhaps this idea can help you set good goals.
Many people want to improve their wardrobe, but it is a big task that can seem overwhelming. A simple solution is to improve the quality incrementally. Get into the good habit of only buying high quality pieces that you can own proudly for many years. If you invest in fewer but better garments, then your wardrobe quality will improve.
Similarly, many people have a style they love and admire, but are not comfortable wearing themselves. You can try the method of small improvements. Define the style you want to have, and then add a small element to your daily outfit. Imagine you want to feel comfortable wearing a suit regularly, but you are afraid to feel overdressed. If you start by wearing a nice shirt regularly, then a few weeks later you start incorporating tailored pants into your wardrobe. At the end you might be able to put on the jacket with complete comfort and owning your personal style. The power of habits is strong, you have to think about how to use it best.
]]>The Balmoral boot is named after the Royal Balmoral estate in Scotland owned by the the British Queen. For centuries the royals have visited the beautiful countryside, going all the way back to Prince Albert and Queen Victoria, where the stylish prince was the first man to wear the Balmoral boots.
Prince Albert asked his shoemaker to create a shoe that would we practical enough to walk the grounds of the Balmoral estate, but still be appropriate enough to wear inside with elegant company. The Balmoral boot was invented to serve the prince’s wishes. An Oxford base allows the shoe to be formal as the trousers hide the upper part of the boot. The higher boot allows a princely foot to stay dry in muddy fields and Scottish hills.
Image Credits: Gabriel Palai
For those who watch the hit show “The Crown” might have noticed that the British royal family still likes to spend their time at Balmoral, fishing salmon and stalking stags. It is interesting to look at how these bespoke requests of past men have shaped the icons of the classic wardrobe. The aristocracy had time to care about their appearance, they had the money to order bespoke items at an extraordinary rate and were the influencers of their day. Now, hundreds of years later, the items are still in style. It is a similar story with the birth of the tuxedo. When King Edward VII was a young man, then the Prince of Wales, he wanted a more informal way to dress at relaxed dinners, at least more relaxed than the white tie formal everyone was wearing at the time. He explained his problem to his tailor, Henry Poole at Savile Row, who invented the “Dinner Suit” to satisfy his important client. The white tie jacket had been simplified and shortened and with the most influential man wearing the new dress, quickly everyone else also wanted a tuxedo.
Today we cannot relate to the dinner jacket as an informal jacket, but the Balmoral shoe can still perfectly function as a hybrid between practical and formal in the modern world.
The brown suede and leather would fit perfectly with the style of a pair of grey flannel trousers and perhaps even tweed jacket. The black version is even more suited to formality, because of the association with the traditional black Oxford shoe, but you can also wear it in a modern way on the weekends. Perhaps with a slim pair of tailored black trousers and a thick grey wool flannel over-shirt or leather jacket. Both are really versatile boots.
The Balmoral boot was made for both countryside and city and, more than a century later, still performs the job admirably.
]]>Chelsea boots have a great history and are part of the classic wardrobe. From their rise to fame in Britain’s 1960, where popular brands like the Beatles adopted them into their style, to today they have remained an icon of cool.
It was the ease of use and less formal appeal of the elastic sides that attracted the rebellious youth in those days. Thanks to the timeless design and versatility of the boot, it can be worn today in many ways, from casual to smart.
]]>Chelsea boots have a great history and are part of the classic wardrobe.
From their rise to fame in Britain’s 1960, where popular brands like the Beatles adopted them into their style, to today they have remained an icon of cool.
It was the ease of use and less formal appeal of the elastic sides that attracted the rebellious youth in those days. Thanks to the timeless design and versatility of the boot, it can be worn today in many ways, from casual to smart.
Rock & Roll
Giving a nod to the origins of the Chelsea boots you could try to wear them with a Rock & Roll attitude. The Rolling Stones and the Beatles would often wear their black Chelsea boots with dark tailored trousers and the look still works today.
To get the signature silhouette you can wear a pair of black Chelsea boots with high waisted wool trousers, which will elongate your look. You can go all the way and wear a leather jacket or you can opt for a statement piece of knitwear, like a soft pink cashmere.
Modern business
Although it has rebellious origins, you can easily dress up Chelsea boots and make them look very smart. If you wear Chelsea boots with your favourite suit they will instantly give a touch of attitude to a conventional look.
You have to match your environment. In some conservative offices and banks, only black oxfords are appropriate, but if you have more room to play, then Chelsea boots are a perfect step up.
You can pair black Chelsea boots with your grey suits, and brown leather with your navy suits. You can also use suede to add texture in your outfit, like this look with tailored trousers, a classic shirt and a statement coat.
Country weekend
Lastly Chelsea boots are great for weekend style. If you like to go for long walks in the park or you have been invited to the countryside for a weekend, then a good pair of Chelsea boots are all you need. If you only have room for one pair of shoes, then Chelsea boots are the way to go. You can play with leather colours and patinas to suit your personal style and they are the perfect combination of stylish and practical. Even if they get muddy during a walk, you can clean and polish them and wear them with a suit for a nice dinner.
In short, no other boot combines the cool and the refined as well as a Chelsea boot.
]]>The Jodhpur boot is versatile, but their specialty is elevated casual wear. You can wear the boots very relaxed and also quite formal, but they shine as a way to look elegant and relaxed.
]]>The Jodhpur boot is versatile, but their specialty is elevated casual wear. You can wear the boots very relaxed and also quite formal, but they shine as a way to look elegant and relaxed.
Named after the Indian city of Jodhpur, it also shares it name with the famous riding trousers. The Jodhpur trousers were wide in the thigh and tight below the knee to give comfort and protection when riding. This allowed for shorter riding boots such as the Jodhpur boots, as they didn’t have to protect the calf.
The Jodhpur boots became popular among polo players and generally in the 1920s, as they were elegant and practical. No other boot is quite as stylish. The polo heritage and the signature ankle strap will underline your personal style and is sure to turn a few heads.
You could wear the versatile Jodhpur boots with casual distressed jeans or your could wear them with flannel tailoring for fall and winter. However the sweet-spot for the Jodhpur style is elevated causal wear.
The shoes are slightly extravagant. The boot’s unique design is classic but fairly uncommon. The wrapped leather strap is a design feature born from practicality but which will draw attention. While most other people wear similar shoes, the classic models with great craftsmanship will stand out. Because the boots are different they show that you made a conscious choice and that you know your own personal style.
Elevating your casual style is a great way to feel more polished without losing any comfort. The first way is to buy less, but better. If you invest in garments you love, you will take care of them and enjoy wearing them.
You can also learn more about the universe of menswear and pick the styles and pieces you love most. The Jodhpur is one such treasure. Not everyone knows its history and design, but if you like the style it will elevate your casual looks perfectly. You can even play with different materials and patinas to achieve the exact look you are wanting.
Here we paired a suede Jodhpur boot with a beautiful pair of navy chinos, which is another staple of the smart casual wardrobe. Then a soft merino wool turtleneck in an earthy tone will balance the utilitarian denim jacket. To finish off the look a chronograph with a blue strap matches the blue tones of the navy chinos and indigo denim.
The Jodhpur boot is for those who like to dress and who care about style. You can wear a pair of boots which stands out and makes your comfortable outfits a little more chic.
]]>A coat is a very special garment and it might be the most satisfying in your wardrobe. When you try on a quality coat, sometimes it just feels right. Something about the protective fit and the heavy fabric can make you feel simultaneously safe and elegant.
Let us look at the three aspects that makes a winter coat great, so that you also may enjoy this feeling.
]]>Let us look at the three aspects that makes a winter coat great, so that you also may enjoy this feeling.
Mr Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980). Photograph by Paramount Pictures/Photofest
Fit
As with any garment fit is very important. However, with a coat you can play a little with oversize as well. It can actually be quite a cool feeling and look to wear an oversized coat, but make sure it looks purposefully oversized.
If you want the classic perfect fit, then make sure it is tailored like a suit but larger. It has to frame your shoulders and go in at the waist and be around mid thigh length. It is important to note that you will often be wearing either knitwear or a blazer underneath your coat, so that is why it has to be slightly larger than your normal clothes.
When you buy or have a coat made, you must wear what you will most often wear in the fall and winter seasons, but that being said it has to have a flattering tailored look.
Fabric
For a coat the cloth is particularly important because it is the largest garment in your wardrobe. It requires more fabric than any other and is in a much heavier fabric weight, which is why your choice of fabric is important.
As always, natural fibres are often used in higher quality garments that will last longer and age better. Think about how you want to wear your coat. If you a coat for walking in the forest that will protect you from rain and be sturdy enough to avoid small tears, you can consider a woollen tweed or maybe a good technical fabric.
If you are looking for a coat to use in the city and at the office, you can chose materials that are more soft and luxurious, but also more delicate. A classic is a double breasted camel coat, but you can also get a cashmere coat in a nice herringbone fabric or a soft double faced construction.
When you chose the weight of the fabric, measured in grams per meter of fabric, you should remember that lighter fabrics are easy to wear in early fall and late spring, but heavier fabrics are necessary for cold winters and give the protective and comforting feeling of a heavy coat.
Attitude
It is not what you wear, but how you wear it.
A great coat can be worn in many ways, and a great coat isn’t necessarily a classic tailored coat.
One of the great joys of a great coat is its ability to dress up or dress down an outfit. Imagine you are wearing a casual outfit of high quality pieces like suede Chelsea boots, light jeans and a cashmere hoodie. This outfit can be blessed with the structure and elegance of a minimalist tailored coat.
Likewise you might be wearing a formal grey suit and tie with black oxfords on a cold winter day, and instead of a black overcoat you might pick a light grey casual parka to balance your look. A great coat is a versatile coat, that feels great when worn in many ways.
When you become more and more interested in coats there are many small details that you can take pleasure in studying. If you like utilitarian outerwear then you can learn about the new developments in breathable waterproof fabrics and if you like formal outerwear you can learn about different tailoring cuts and details.
The power of a great coat is that you can wear it often and that it can transform your outfits. Maybe you want to look more elegant or more down to earth, if you chose the right coat you can make it happen.
The most important is that you wear your coat with attitude, that you love your clothes and feel confident in your coat.
“A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.” – Hardy Amies
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As the days grow shorter and winter flows over the land, many cultures have festive traditions that bring people together. It all culminates in the turn of the year where we celebrate what is to come and the year that passed. This is a time to enjoy, and also specifically enjoying dressing the way you want.
Formal Wear
It is such a pleasure to dress up for a party, not only does it get you into the right mindset, but the atmosphere in a room full of well dressed people is very special.
The traditional black tie options is always good, but during the festive season you also have the opportunity to have more fun with materials and colours.
You can for example wear an ivory dinner jacket with you black tuxedo trousers to make it even more special. Tailored in ivory cashmere, this might become your favorite garment in your wardrobe.
If you are interested in staying in the dark formal colours, you can try a black or midnight blue dinner jacket in velvet. Nothing looks as dark and elegant as a velvet dinner jacket with wool tuxedo trousers and a pair of patent leather shoes.
Image Credits: https://www.permanentstyle.com/
The most important thing is to feel great while getting dressed and then forgetting the clothes to really enjoy the party.
Casual wear
During recent years, the Danish word “Hygge” has become somewhat famous for its meaning of “Cosy” or a “lovely warm atmosphere”. This can also be an important part of the festive season, to enjoy time with family and friends.
The sign of a well dressed person is often their ability to look stylish while they relax. Just like with the rest of your wardrobe, only a few high quality versatile items will be enough to make you look great even on days off.
The master of casual chic is Italian Brunello Cucinelli, who is the founder of his eponymous fashion brand. He started with cashmere knitwear and has since build a global fashion house on the basis of his philosophy about how work should give dignity to people.
His iconic look is a double breasted navy blazer with a shirt and sweater and casual tailored trousers. For the more cosy days you can just wear your favorite sweater with a great tailored flannel trouser, and you will look elegant and feel comfortable.
As the months are colder, you can enjoy wearing more clothes. Laying beautiful materials is a joy and for the outer layer you need a great coat. A nice pair of boots and a beautiful coat will be perfect for winter walks the day after your glamorous party.
]]>We have made a selection of 4 illustrations from the 1920s and 1930s which we will learn from. This was a time where suits were tailored, even for ordinary people. Now bespoke is very exclusive, with made-to-measure being more widely available, but two or three generations ago tailoring was the norm and industrial ready-to-wear was not yet dominant.
Great coats are the most stylish armour a man could wish for.
These coats, made around a hundred years ago, have a very generous volume. The tailoring is not oversized but you can notice the love of great fabric in the wide lapel, long coat and choice of fabric.
The gentleman on the left is wearing a windowpane check with a matching scarf in a lighter colour. On the right we have a large herring bone pattern in heavy light grey wool and a lovely half-belt tailoring detail in the back.
For anyone looking for a statement coat that would be lovely to wear all through fall and winter, this illustration teaches us the important of choosing a beautiful fabric and a classic cut.
Here we see two gentlemen out for a leisure sailing trip. While their relaxed attitudes show the pleasure of sailing, notice how they use simple wardrobe classics to make a timeless casual outfit.
This is very much the style that inspired Gabrielle Chanel’s relaxed style that revolutionised womenswear. Just like today, she saw that these timeless clothes could look as good on a woman as on a man, if worn with the right attitude.
The classic crew neck knit sweater and wide cotton trousers makes a practical and stylish outfit that could replace our jogging pants and hoodie next time we are having a day of relaxation.
You can also notice the high waisted trousers and the polo shirt the “captain” is wearing. The trousers sit on his natural waist, the thinnest part of the torso, which elongates the legs and highlights the v shape between waist and shoulders.
Now we get to look at classic suits from a century ago. It is amazing how little the ideal suit has changed over one hundred years and that you could go to any good tailor and get the same jacket made today.
The cut is slightly different from the modern cut. Today, trousers are slimmer and jackets are generally shorter. Here we also see a narrow 1920s-1930s English point collar on the shirts.
The chalk stripe fabrics are a classic design, very much still relevant, but these would have been in a much heavier fabric than today. If today a suit fabric might weigh 250 grams per meter, these could easily have been 380 grams, so significantly heavier .
It is also interesting to notice the difference between dark and light grey. If you want to stand out, you should choose a light grey, if you are looking for a discrete outfit that dark grey is a better choice.
Finally, notice how these suits are bespoke. Firstly the fit is perfect. The suits falls nicely on the shoulder, flatters the waist and the sleeve length leaves a good amount of shirt cuff showing. But you can also notice the handmade quality in the details. Most noticeable is the lapel roll of the dark grey suit, where the fabric softly curves around to form the lapels which takes hundreds of manual stitches to achieve.
Let’s conclude by looking at the height of formality. These two gentlemen look as though the are about to leave after a night at the opera, notice the cloak room behind them. Both men are wearing white tie, which is the most formal civilian outfit for men. It consists of black trousers, high waisted with pleats in this case, and a black jacket, sharp and short in the front and long in the back. It is always worn with a white waistcoat, shirt and tie.
On the right you can see the classic opera coat and the necessary accessories of the while silk scarf and black top hat.
Although this level of formality is rarely required, I think more men should enjoy the feeling of dressing up as much as they like. Clearly these two men care about how they look and were successful in their efforts.
Looking at illustrations from the past allows us to better understand timeless style, and to integrate the elements we like in our own wardrobe. Perhaps your next pair of trousers will be high waisted or you might indulge in a white tie suit that make you feel like a mix of James Bond and Downton Abbey.
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Image Credits: @monsieurgallery
]]>The Chukka boot has an interesting history and is a very versatile boot. After delving in to the origins of the boot we will look at how to wear them. The British military made the Chukka boots famous on their foreign campaigns in hot climates. They were first used in India and then during the dessert campaign of the second world war, where they were practical because of their lightness and mobility.
]]>The British military made the Chukka boots famous on their foreign campaigns in hot climates. They were first used in India and then during the dessert campaign of the second world war, where they were practical because of their lightness and mobility.
This is a utilitarian boot with a rough history, but it still remains very elegant. Perhaps its clean lines and timeless shape are a result of many revisions after hard use. The final classic shape of the boot leaves is versatile for both a town or country look.
Chukka Boots - Brown Grain by 3DM Lifestyle
Luxury Casual
To attain a great look that is both luxurious and casual you have to use great materials. Real luxury is not about flashy items, but about quality and textures.
If you start with a base of brown Chukka boots in a nicely grained leather you should stay in a limited natural colour palette. Without strong contrasting colours, people will be able to appreciate the subtle textures and details of your outfit.
You could, for example, wear a nicely tailored pair of beige pleated trousers, which will make any shoe look sharper. Then you can handle the cold weather with an ivory turtle neck cashmere knit and add a nice jacket. A camel colour will be the perfect way to mix the subtle colours, either with a suede jacket or a unconstructed blazer.
You can use this concept to always add a luxury feel to all your outfits, by using a rich but limited colour palette to highlight the finer details.
Sophisticated Monochrome
Some people have a style that both stands out and that is anonymous. Wearing all black is a paradox that says that you have precisely chosen every element of your look and at the same time, you thoughts are more important than your clothes.
If you start out with a beautiful black boot, like the grained Black Chukka Boot, you can match it with the most beautiful black garment in your wardrobe.
No outfit goes so well from day to night, as an all black. No outfit is as intellectual and can be used by executives, creatives and performers alike.
Once again, if you remove the colours, the quality and the details stand out more. Now it is all about shape. Find pieces that flatter your body and that underline your style. Finally an all black outfit has to be worn with a bit of nonchalance to really make it work.
]]>Image credits: https://repro-tableaux.com
Many of us have a basic instinct to want to capture the beauty of nature. We often look for some way to catch the moment of extraordinary beauty. But why do we have this urge.
Nature is beautiful. Probably no one denies this point. Nature is also cruel and ugly at times, but is is undoubtedly also beautiful. However our need to capture it comes from the fact that the beauty is fleeting.
Think about the classic imagery of natural beauty. A flower in bloom, a butterfly enjoying its short life or a sunrise. These are all extraordinary moments of beauty but also notoriously fleeting.
In art this can be referred to as “memento mori”. Here a symbol of the brevity of life is used to encourage everyone to seize the day. A flower in bloom, an hour glass or even a human skull are traditional elements of still life painting, all to make us think about how we spend our limited time.
However there is more to learn from the beauty of nature. Yes, the peak of flourishing beauty is short, but the life circle is long.
The beauty of a rose is easy to appreciate in bloom, but there is also great beauty with the first leaves in early spring or the resilient survival through a tough winter. It is just the same as the different periods we all go through in life, each is different and can be beautiful.
Image credits: https://kew.org
Nature can also help us to feel grounded by seeming eternal, like the sky or the sea.
The artist Mark Frith dedicated years of his life to making large and extremely detailed drawings of the legendary oaks of Britain. Some of them more than a thousand years old, he depicts them leafless in winter where their shape show their ancient legacy.
If you have a garden or a sunny window, you can enjoy the beauty of nature by seeing the process of a seed becoming a beautiful flower. The peak is even more beautiful because you have witnessed the growth.
If you are given a bouquet of flowers they will quickly fade, but you can dry them and see the beauty of their bare architecture.
The great artisan also has an appreciation of natural beauty. Great craftsmanship deserves great raw materials, and great natural materials deserve great craftsmanship. Notice how natural leather is alive and will change with time. It gets weathered and the patina develops through time. That is natural beauty.
We don’t have to capture nature when we can live with it and appreciate every stage of its beauty.
]]>We love our work. Imagine the difference in happiness when your work life is either enjoyable or not. One of the most important challenges of life is to get the most out of it. We make high quality, stylish shoes at a reasonable price, and we love our work. We would like to share the two steps to enjoying work.
The first step is to follow your passion. If you go down a path due to pressure from others and not because you are following your curiosity, you are much less likely to enjoy your work. If you follow your passion, you are not only more likely to be happy but also more likely to succeed.
If you have a job or a business, where you would be happy to work if you didn’t earn any profits, you have much more control and money will be a bonus.
If your motivation is money, you depend much more on externalities out of your control and reaching your goal will not make you happy. Many studies have shown that increased wealth doesn’t increase happiness after a basic minimum is met. The best is to do what you like.
"The only way to do great work is to love what you do.”
- Steve Jobs
“What feels like play to you, but looks like work to others?”
- Naval Ravikant
Photo by Rachel Claire from Pexels
The second step is to take time to learn how to enjoy your work. Basically it is possible to find meaning and enjoyment in most work, but it is much easier if you first follow step one and do what you like.
It is possible for two people to work in the same position, but to have two completely different perceptions of their jobs. Imagine one person goes to work and is kind, and people respond with kindness, while the other person in a similar position is unkind and met with unkindness.
Once you have found the attitude that lets you enjoy your work, it is important to have your skills match your challenges at work.
If you are highly skilled with few challenges, you will be bored.
If you are poorly skilled with high challenges, you will be stressed.
You need to find the right balance, that allows you to thrive.
A great book called “FLOW” has been written about this state of great work. The author Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi investigates the amazing feeling of accomplishment that can be felt when circumstances are perfect for concentrated work. He describes how a pianist forgets about himself and feels ecstasy while only focusing on the music.
For artisans it is the same. A high level of skill and technical difficulty can give a very satisfying workflow where skill and challenges increase together. The book is great to encourage yourself to enjoy work more, and as a side effect become much better at it.
We spend so much time working and the goal should not be to hold on until the weekend or vacation. Let us instead think about how to enjoy our work in the moment.
]]>In a company there are often a lot of things to keep you busy. The day to day activities can easily fill the work day, but the greatest companies take time for something else. It is important not only to do business, but also to think about business. The greatest companies take time to define their values and to find their purpose. It is just the same in our personal lives. We have to take time to think about how we want to live.
When you take time to think about your life or project, firstly you have to clarify your values to yourself. At its simplest it is about defining good and bad, and choosing what is right. If you feel like you don’t act according to your values, it is because you do not truly know them. A simple way is to appropriate the qualities you admire in others and distance yourself from the traits you dislike.
The book “7 Habits of highly effective people” by Stephen R. Covey is a great book with instructional tips and eye opening examples of living according to your values. It is not a book about “7 life hacks to make a million dollars” but a profound book that could shift your paradigm and give a lasting positive impact on your life.
Value philosophy doesn’t have to be pretentious. It can be like an old friend or a grandparent you can rely on in hard times. To me, nothing is as helpful as stoicism when life is hard. Stoicism already has 4 virtues defined, and if you relate to them, it might be a helpful philosophy for you. Wisdom, justice, courage, and self-discipline are at the center of what stoics think is good, and folly, injustice, cowardice, and indulgence should be avoided.
The core of stoicism is only to try to control what you can control, and not to waste energy on what is out of your control. When you are down and want to give up, forget about the uncontrollable negative externalities and focus on what you can do.
“You are not your body and hair-style, but your capacity for choosing well. If your choices are beautiful, so too will you be.” - Epictetus
Once you have centered your life around your values, you might want to devote your time to something significant. Your career, a business, writing a book or competitive skiing, whichever your project do it in a way that reflects your values. Simon Sinek has developed a great framework called “Begin with why” to clarify your purpose to align it with your values. His ted-talk can change the way you view the world.
Do not just live your life, take time to think about it. Know your values and stand for them. Use all your power to choose what you believe to be good and no power on what you cannot control. Lastly, devote your life to something you believe in that gives meaning for you.
]]>The fact that everybody doesn’t know Charlie Munger is a loss for humanity.
The 97 year old billionaire business partner of Warren Buffett is a gold mine of good advice. His interests are broad but everything is focused on his study of the pursuit of wealth, happiness and avoiding stupidity. The best way to introduce one of the most successful investors in history is by reading a few of his quotes.
“Simplicity has a way of improving performance by enabling us to better understand what we are doing.”
“Spend each day trying to be a little wiser than you were when you woke up.”
“We both (Charlie Munger and Warren Buffett) insist on a lot of time being available almost every day to just sit and think. That is very uncommon in American business. We read and think.”
Together with Warren Buffett, Charlie Munger has grown the investment company Berkshire Hathaway over decades to become worth more than 500 billion dollars. As vice-president, Munger has created the strategy of investing in great companies without having any intentions of selling them. Their patience and trust in great companies like Coca Cola has made them billions during the last decades.
Charlie Munger believes that the “old values” of honour, trust, hard work and saving is the best way to live life. You will often hear him say that the most important decision in life is the choice of spouse and that to be wealthy one has to live within one’s income. The two business partners are convinced that taking the high road of capitalism is more profitable, because there is less traffic. In the annual report of Berkshire Hathaway, they write that the company is rich enough to lose even a lot of money, but cannot afford to lose even a little bit of trust.
In addition to the old values, Charlie Munger has developed two guidelines for his successful life that are worth remembering.
Charlie Munger attributes happiness and wealth to life long learning. He spends most of his time reading or thinking, taking great satisfaction from it. His goal has been to learn about the big ideas of many academic fields and apply what he learns to what he is thinking about. He thinks that stealing the great ideas is quite easy, and then he tries to avoid foolishness. This habit of life long learning has been of increasing value to the 97 year old investor.
The second guideline Munger has for success is to know the edge of your circle of competence. We all have competence in a limited area. Both Munger and Buffett are convinced that success depends more of knowing exactly where your competency ends than to knowing more than your competitors. Know what you know, and what you don’t know.
To get where you want in life, you have to have the right mindset. If you feel attracted to the ideas of this old, odd and wise old man, then it is a delight to learn more about him. There are witty and interesting recordings of the Berkshire Hathaway annual meetings on YouTube, that anyone can learn a lot from. Additionally, the book "Tao of Charlie Munger” is a great collection of quotes that describes his personal philosophy which has been refined over a century of business success. His wit and success are admirable, but his wisdom is what makes his so interesting. Here is a man who spends most of his time thinking and reading, and luckily he likes to share his findings.
“To get what you want, you have to deserve what you want. The world is not yet a crazy enough place to reward a whole bunch of undeserving people.”
]]>The beginning of our design process is always an inspiration. Something has made us think and feel something new and given us the desire to create.
Inspiration can come from anywhere, like a beautifully balanced object or our mood influenced by the world around us. Recently we had an intense feeling of wanderlust and the resulting collection was about traveling and being bold.
Once the inspiration is clear in our minds, we can continue with the design of the shoes. Often we like to start with the raw material. Feeling the textures and qualities of different leathers will guide us in the right direction.
Then the question of shape appears. Many great painters paint in three steps, first with lines, then with tones and lastly with colour. For us it is very similar. The lines of the shoe are very important and slight changes can have a surprisingly large visual effect. It is a question of first drawing bold lines and then eventually pushing them back and forth until the shape is coherent with our inspiration of the design.
Combining material and shape, craftsmanship and design joins to discover the technique that allows the construction of the shoe. We look at how can the design be realised in the chosen leather and which old techniques we can employ to create this new shoe.
Like the great painters of the past, our last step is colour. Once we have a great shape, multiple colours will work well. It is our job to find which colours look best and convey the idea of our inspiration.
Colours are crucial to the style and expression of a shoe. We often use the raw leather colours to reference classic formal shoes whereas coloured leather opens up a new world. Colour is also very important when thinking of how the shoe will integrate into the wardrobe of the final client.
Our current summer season is all about boldness. We felt the need to travel and break with our rhythm. We used several strong textures, python pattern and grained leather, which underlined our concept. Then we designed the collection around the shape of a loafer, which underlined our idea of travel with its ease of wear. Different techniques were employed to create our different shapes of loafer and finally we developed a new colour palette. Ink blue, yellow and green were complimented by a range of summer pastel colours which put the final touch on the design process.
When looking back on the designs of the past, it is easy to be very humbled in awe of all the great designs. This can give a feeling of nostalgia and a desire to emulate those past designs, but this is paralysingly to progress. The more you study the history of design, the more it becomes apparent that the great designs were made by people searching for timelessness and modernity. Like the great designers before us, we believe that timeless designs are achieved by looking to the future, by staying true to your inspiration and by pushing the boundaries.
]]>Keeping your shoes well polished should be more of a privilege than a duty. If you take some time to take care of your shoes every now and again, you might find it to be a special time.
Doing manual work, you can see the progress unfold before your eyes. In our day and age few of our achievements are tangible and it can sometimes feel like nothing was done after finishing work. This is the time to take out your brushes and creams.
Shining your shoes is a stress release because it forces you to take your mind off your problems for half an hour, while you hands work the leather repetitively. Taking care of your shoes will also enrich the leather and thus prolonging the life of the shoe. This is sustainable and by working the leather in this final process of shoemaking, you will get an understanding of how much work and care the artisan put into making your shoes.
Now let's look at the three steps to getting a quality shoe shine.
STEP ONE: CLEAN THE SHOE
At the beginning it is very important to clean your shoes well. Make sure they are nice and dry and then brush off any dirt and dust. Keep a separate brush for dusting off your shoes, and make sure to clean out all the crevices around the shoe.
STEP TWO: NURTURE THE LEATHER
Leather is a living material and needs care. After cleaning your shoes, you can take care of the leather. Because leather dries out over time, you have to nourish it to keep it strong. Here, it is important to consider what cream your leather needs.
You should avoid any neutral creams for your leather, as many can cause discolouration. Instead find a shade of shoe cream that is the closest to your shoe’s colour. If you are in between two shades, you can decide if you wish for your shoe to become slightly darker or lighter over time. Saphir creams and waxes are considered the best by many in the trade and are worth the investment.
Apply the coloured shoe cream to your leather thinly with a cloth. Simply dip a clean cotton rag in the cream and apply it to the upper of the shoe. It is always best to start in a discreet spot on the shoe and do the tip of the shoe last. Once you have applied a thin coat of cream you can take a clean cloth or brush and work the cream into the leather. This will make the matte cream integrate into the leather and will give a fairly good shine after a few minutes of work. If any areas look dry or damaged, just reapply cream and repeat the process. You might like the slightly shiny look after polishing the cream, but if you want a perfect shine you have to use wax and follow the next step.
You should also keep an eye on the leather lining of your artisanal shoes. The thin leather might get dry over time and need a colourless nourishing cream or milk.
STEP THREE: WAX, WATER & REPEAT
With your shoe being clean and the leather well nourished, you can take the next step and get a wax polish.
Whereas the leather cream penetrates deeply into the leather, the wax creates a shiny protective coat on top of the leather. The wax polish only integrates with the surface layer of the leather, which is achieved by multiple layers of wax being applied with water and friction.
Take a clean cloth and wrap tightly it around two of your fingers. Press the cloth lightly into your wax, in the colour corresponding to the leather of your shoe, and make small circular motions to coat the cloth lightly with the wax. Then use the same small circular motions to apply the wax to the tip of the shoe.
At first the wax will make the shoe slightly mat, but once you have applied a very thin layer of wax you should put one small drop of water on the leather. Use the cloth, the drop, and small circular motions to integrate the wax into the surface of the leather. After a while, and perhaps after adding another few drops of water, the matte wax will become fixed and become slightly shiny. Now is the time to apply another very small coat of wax and rework it into the surface with friction and water.
The key is patience, but it is also important not to press too hard with your fingers and to apply an even and thin layer of wax. Continue adding thin coats of wax and polish until you are satisfied with the shine.
The classic polish is focused on the cap toe area and the heel of the shoe with many layers of wax, and the rest of the shoe only gets lightly polished. If you build up a thick layer of polished wax on a part of the leather that moves, the wax polish will crack.
Polishing your shoes with wax will protect them better agains the elements and will help you and those around you admire the beauty of the leather and the craftsmanship.
The famous fashion editor, Diana Vreeland, underlined the importance of shining your shoes and being elegant by her famous remark. “Unshined shoes are the end of civilization.”
]]>It can be tricky to decide how to match your most colourful shoes. You have to trust your intuition and be confident in your taste. Let's have a look at some ways of wearing colourful shoes that you can experiment with.
“The bright colors give that touch of cheer to my wardrobe and are perfect with sunny days”
- Niccolò Cesari
The first strategy is to use similar complementary tones. Here the idea is to make the colours of your outfit to look very harmonious and unified. You might, for example, choose to play with different shades of blue with your shoes, trousers and shirt. You could also pair soft colours with other soft colours, like ivory with a pastel buttercream.
A harmonious colour palette is great for unifying and elongating your silhouette and gives an understated elegant look.
The second strategy is to use contrasting colours. Here you take very different colours and match them together. The goal is to showcase the beauty of each colour. However, not all colours work well together. Here you must rely on your intuition and experience, to find strong colours that work well together for you.
Finally you can make the shoes the focal point of your outfit. If you have a pair of beautiful shoes you love and want to let shine, you can easily integrate them into your daily style. Shoes with a very bold colour are actually quite easy to style because they become the focus of your outfit. It you wear a simple outfit with a striking shoe, it can look amazing.
There is no reason to be hesitant about colourful shoes. If you have shoes know are well made and you think they are beautiful, then you should wear them.
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